The 2009 Excel Lent has a lot to live up to with that name. Fortunately this Priorat is well worth seeking out. It sports a well-defined nose that controls the alcohol (14.5%) well with lifted notes of blackberry, Black Forest gateau, cassis and creamy oak. The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry with layers of pure, ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit that is well-defined and fresh. It is a very well-crafted, decadent Priorat that should age well over 8-10 years or more. Drink now-2022. Genium Celler was formed in 2002 when six families pooled their resources. Together, they own 15 hectares of vine located in Poboleda, La Morera and Torroja, of which 3 hectares are farmed organically. The main focus is upon Garnacha and Carinena, complemented by Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. I found their wines to be unashamedly modern in style, generally well-crafted and for the most part, avoiding the overbearing nature and uncontained alcohol of some of their peers. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343

The purple/black 2007 Excel-lent offers up an already complex bouquet of exotic spices, licorice, tapenade, mineral, and assorted black fruits. Dense, voluptuous, and powerful, it will benefit from 6-8 years of additional cellaring and drink well through 2027. Genium Celler began in 2002 when six families from the Priorat village of Poboleda joined forces. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343