You'll find more dark fruit and more freshness here than in many of the other offerings from Gaja, with a dark, deep inky appearance. The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Darmagi is a 100% expression of the grape, whereas past editions saw tiny parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The fruit comes from a 2.5-hectare vineyard planted in 1978 directly under the town of Barbaresco, setting the stage for an elegant rendition of Cabernet Sauvignon with a fresh and contained style. The wine shows a nice balance between the extraction you get from the grape skins and the rich succulence you get from the pulp inside the berries. In the 2017, you taste more of the skins, and in the 2018, Gaia Gaja comments, you taste more of the pulp. The 2016 offers both, countering each other with precision. Whole grapes are pressed very gently, and the wine is aged in oak for 18 months, with less emphasis on new oak now. In fact, only 30% of the total sees new oak, and a greater percentage of the wine goes into large oak casks instead.

Darmagi loves a warm vintage. The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Darmagi embraces the summer warmth like a happy sponge. This wine is faithfully true to the variety, with intensely dark fruit followed by dried cassis, exotic spice and green laurel leaf. There is a point of succulent sweetness in the mouth that is uniquely specific to this hot vintage. The wine is seamless and smooth in texture with solid structure on the close. The vines suffered from stripe disease (GLSD). This reduced the capacity of the plant's foliar system. Gaia Gaja tells me they were able to harvest from the healthy parts of the vines to make this beautiful wine.

A pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2011 Darmagi delivers loads of varietal character with tangy aromas of wild sage and rosemary oil followed by extra dark color and saturation. There’s a deep sense of richness here that will carry this elegant wine forward throughout the years. Black cherry and chocolate fill the rear. Drink: 2017-2035. I have some happy news to report from the exciting world of Angelo Gaja. The estate that was notoriously difficult (if not impossible) to visit for those outside the wine trade is now opening its doors to the public. There is a steep entrance fee, but the scheme makes perfect sense in my option. Any wine lover can make an appointment to tour the estate and sample wine for up to 300 euros a person. The money must be paid to charity as none of the proceeds go to Gaja. If you have a favorite non-profit organization, make a donation in that amount. Once you send receipt of payment to Gaja’s tasting room staff, your visit will be granted. It sounds like a fair exchange to me. Importer: Terlato Wines International, www.terlatowines.com

The 2008 Darmagi (Cabernet Sauvignon) is gorgeous. It shows terrific richness and density with plenty of varietal character and personality, all in a highly attractive, medium-bodied style. Plums, black cherries, cassis and sweet herbs flow gracefully as the wine shows off its irresistible personality. Darmagi is tricky because it is more sensitive to vintage than most of Gaja's other wines. The 2008, though, is striking. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Getting to the top in any field is hard. Staying at the top is even harder. For all of the praise Angelo Gaja and his family have received over the years, they have earned and deserve every bit of it. These new releases, the 2008 reds from Barolo in particular, are insanely beautiful. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

Admittedly, the 2007 Langhe Darmagi (Cabernet Sauvignon) is a wine I don’t get. Gaja has nothing left to prove to anyone, so why he continues to squander this top-flight vineyard in Barbaresco on Cabernet Sauvignon is frankly beyond me. Sure, the 2007 Darmagi impresses for its sheer concentration and balance, but at the end of the day, there is little varietal character or personality here. There is now enough evidence to conclude that this vineyard is capable of occasionally producing a distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon but without much consistency from year to year. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900