Unfortunately more expensive sometimes means more oak, and if it's very expensive, then it means a ton of oak. This is the case with the 2013 Selectus, a blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with 20% Garnacha, smothered by 18 months in brand new French oak barriques. I can only refer to oak-related aromas here, roasted coffee, smoke, sawdust, spices, incense, cigar ash, balsam, etc. The flavors are the same, adding some raspy tannins, a drying finish and some bitterness. This is a classic example of death by oak. For fans of international oaky reds—a fine representation of the style.

The Bodega’s flagship is called Selectus; no 2006 was made but the 2007 Selectus was worth the wait. A blend of 30% Syrah, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Petit Verdot, it was aged for 18 months in new French oak. Smoky oak, pencil lead, Asian spices, incense, lavender, and assorted black fruits lead to a suave, dense, succulent offering that features outstanding volume and a 45-second finish. Give it another 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it from 2014 to 2027. These new releases from Bodega Los Aljibes demonstrate what can be achieved by talented vignerons working in selected regions of La Mancha. Bodegas Los Aljibes is one of the up-and-coming stars of La Mancha. Importer: Casa Ventura Imports, Bellingham, WA; Tel. (360) 303-1760

The 2005 Selectus is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot with malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 18 months in new French oak. The nose gives up an aromatic array of pain grille, pencil lead, smoke, incense, black currant, and blackberry reminiscent of a top level classified growth Bordeaux. Elegant yet powerful on the palate, it delivers gobs of succulent fruit, well-concealed silky tannins, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will age gracefully for 5-7 years and have a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2030. Importer: Casa Ventura, Bellingham, WA; tel. (360) 303-1760

The 2004 Selectus is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon which spent 18 months in new French oak. It sports lots of smoky new oak in the nose as well as spicy black currants and licorice. The fruit is sweet and the wine has good balance in its medium- to full-bodied personality but it is in need of more depth and richness to achieve an outstanding rating. Importer: Hidalgo Imports, Miami, FL; tel. (786) 489-1525 and Elite Wines, Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 339-8150