Made with a special selection of Sangiovese, the 2020 Fontalloro is generous and rich, and the wine sports medium-dark color and concentration. The winemaking team has succeeded in bringing out an especially elegant side to this vintage. The wine offers pronounced notes of cherry and wild plum with delicate spice at the back. Like the other wines in this portfolio, there is a pretty mineral note that makes for a consistent through-line in all these new releases.

The 2019 Fontalloro is all Sangiovese that is aged in new and second-year barriques for up to 20 months. This vintage is represented by a production of 45,000 bottles. The wine opens to a medium-dark garnet color with lots of rich fruit and oak spice. The tannins are dry and the wine is slightly thinner that I would have expected, especially for a vintage that is identified by extra concentration. With time in the glass, Fontalloro relaxes to show more volume and a broader presentation of dark fruit aromas.

To my palate, the 2018 vintage sometimes feels a little too ripe or baked. I was reminded of those characteristics when tasting the Fèlsina 2018 Fontalloro. There is plenty of dark fruit at its core, but this wine also reveals dry tones of jarred oregano, grilled Mediterranean herb, crushed aspirin and graham cracker. The mouthfeel is pleasantly lean and silky, and perhaps the wine delivers more in terms of length than it does weight or texture. A little more bottle age should help flesh out and soften these results.

The Fèlsina 2017 Fontalloro pours out of the bottle with a bang. This pure expression of Sangiovese is luscious and dark with thick layers of dark fruit, plum, cherry, leather and tilled earth. This hot-vintage edition shows good depth and intensity with lots of that black-fruit energy and extra concentration that is typical of this growing season. However, you can always count on Fontalloro to show balance, and that's exactly what you get here despite the adversity of the scorching summer season. That Sangiovese acidity remains intact and crisp. Production is 30,000 bottles.

The 2016 Fontalloro is the best vintage of this landmark wine that I have tasted thus far. This is a very elegant vintage, with more volume in the mouth and precise notes of tar, licorice, camphor ash, resin and Indian spice. In a race between the highly competitive 2015 and 2016 vintages, I give a slight advantage to this wine. The warmer 2015 vintage shows more richness and exuberant fruit. However, this wine from 2016 offers a more focused and chiseled delivery. I am hopeful that this wine will continue to evolve and sharpen as it ages in the bottle. This is a beautiful wine to put aside in your cellar for ten years or more.