The Fèlsina 2021 Chianti Classico Berardenga has a spicy or crunchy side that I often find with Sangiovese. There is a lot of fruit brightness here with cassis, red cherry, mineral, dried tobacco and grilled rosemary. This is an easy-drinking Tuscan red with the natural acidity and brightness to pair with a classic lasagna or eggplant parmigiana.

The entry-level 2020 Chianti Classico Berardenga is all Sangiovese aged in Slavonian oak for a quick 12 months. The hot-vintage wine delivers cherry, cola, dried herb and rosemary over a lean to mid-weight texture. It ends with whiffs of fresh spice and barbecue smoke. This is an ample production of 280,000 bottles.

One of the best vantage points for drinking Chianti Classico is at the entry level. A wine like the Fèlsina 2019 Chianti Classico Berardenga offers so much freshness and cheerful, easy-drinking appeal. It's a terrific partner to pizza, pasta or basically anything on the trattoria menu tonight. This wine shows bright cherry flavors and redcurrant with pressed flowers and some tangy blood orange. It is steady and generous, with lots of bright primary intensity.

The Fèlsina 2018 Chianti Classico Berardenga is a toned and delicate expression of 100% Sangiovese from a vintage that produced beautifully subtle and understated wines. It shows good momentum driven by dark fruit, blackberry and summer cherry. The intensity of these aromas is downplayed and rendered less pronounced, adding elegance and fragility. Pretty background notes of spice and balsam herb add an extra layer of complexity. An ample 280,000 bottles were produced.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Berardenga is a fine and precise wine that shows some of the warmth, good cheer and exuberance of the vintage, but that ultimately proves to be better contained and more carefully etched than I would have anticipated. The bouquet starts off with black fruit and light shadings of spice, but the best part is in those mineral aromas of flint and slate. Serve it with stuffed red peppers. Some 280,000 bottles were made.