The 2006 Reserve Merlot/Cabernet/Malbec has a bewitching nose of black olives, pomegranate with a touch of cloves reminiscent of more the Northern Rhone than Bordeaux! The palate has a lovely restraint with touches of tar, blackberry and black olive tapenade on the finish. Sheer class. Founded by Englishman Robert Bird in 1933, the wines were branded “Glenvale,” specializing in fortified wines with Esk Valley introduced in the 1970s for its dry premium wines. Over-production in the 1980s led to the company going into receivership whereupon it was purchased by George Fistonich of Villa Maria though it has always operated independently. Sourcing grapes in the Hawkes Bay area from its own vineyards and contracted growers, winemaking embraces an artisanal approach using small batches vinified in concrete fermenters, the reserve wines matured in 60-65% new oak (10% American) for 18 months in French oak. Alastair Mailing MW told me that the vats do not have temperature control as the concrete naturally retains the heat and that they allow the fermentation to peak between 30 and 35 degrees. The head winemaker since 1993 has been Gordon Russell. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205)980-8802; fax (205) 980-0408