The 2005 Black Label Syrah is just a real treat, hand-picked from two vineyards on the Gimblett Gravels and matured for 12 months in French oak. It displays a dense nose of blackberry, iodine and a touch of garrigue with excellent definition but is somewhat brooding compared to the other Syrah. The palate is just a little over-extracted, supple in texture but quite complex with notes of Provencal herbs, white fennel, thyme and white pepper. Very tight on the finish, very primal: this deserves considerable ageing of say 6-8 years before opening. “The Terraces” is Esk Valley’s iconic label made in tiny quantities in selected years. Founded by Englishman Robert Bird in 1933, the wines were branded “Glenvale,” specializing in fortified wines with Esk Valley introduced in the 1970s for its dry premium wines. Over-production in the 1980s led to the company going into receivership whereupon it was purchased by George Fistonich of Villa Maria though it has always operated independently. Sourcing grapes in the Hawkes Bay area from its own vineyards and contracted growers, winemaking embraces an artisanal approach using small batches vinified in concrete fermenters, the reserve wines matured in 60-65% new oak (10% American) for 18 months in French oak. Alastair Mailing MW told me that the vats do not have temperature control as the concrete naturally retains the heat and that they allow the fermentation to peak between 30 and 35 degrees. The head winemaker since 1993 has been Gordon Russell. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205)980-8802; fax (205) 980-0408