Lastly, the 2005 C’est Si Bon from the Naggiar Vineyard is a blend of 89% Syrah and 11% Cinsault. A Cotes du Rhone-inspired effort, it reveals a deep ruby color, an intriguing perfume of tree bark, raspberries, dusty black cherries, and earth, sweet tannins, medium to full body, and excellent ripeness. This complex 2005 should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. This excellent winery continues to turn out a bevy of intriguing wines, including both Zinfandels and Rhone Ranger offerings.Tel. (707) 944-2900

Napa-based Elyse is better known for their Cabernet Sauvignon, but they have reached into Nevada County, in the Sierra Foothills, for this lovely Rhone-style blend. It’s soft in acidity and the tannins are melted, as you might expect from a warm-to-hot region. But the flavors are plush in jammy cherries, black raspberries, chocolate and crushed black pepper.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 89