A stemmy, vegetal, spicy, cinnamon-scented nose is at odds with previous experiences. Impressive Zinfandels usually emerge from Edmunds St. John, and although this wine reveals softness and ripeness, it lacks size and extract. Given the talent and track-record here, this is a disappointment.NOTE: All the wines in this article were tasted in May, 1996.Tel. (510) 654-1230

As anyone who has tasted the authoritatively flavored reds of Edmunds St. John realizes, this winery never skimps on aromatic intensity or flavor richness. Made from a blend of 82% Zinfandel (52% from El Dorado and 30% from Amador) and the remainder Grenache and Mourvedre, this wine's dense purple color is followed by aromas of sweet, jammy black fruits, licorice, pepper, and minerals. Deep, rich, and full-bodied, this impressively extracted wine exhibits moderate tannins, adequate acidity, and an impressive finish. Approachable now, it should evolve gracefully for another 7-10 years.Tel. (415) 654-1230