The 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese smells of candied lemon rind, fresh pineapple, and a pungent spiciness and ester-filled notes born of noble rot. A lemon meringue, slightly sweet-sour character emerges in the mouth, where the wine also exhibits an impressively tactile sense of density, going on to finish with persistent lemon, pineapple, and wet stone slate character. I wonder whether this attractive wine will not show some more complexity in time. Loosen’s home vineyard in Bernkastel is usually a source for excellent dry wine, classic Kabinett and Eiswein. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255

Sleek and riveting for its dense peach, lime and slate flavors, dancing on a light-bodied, harmonious frame. It's all supported by a tensile structure. Long, long finish, with ripe apple and peach. Best from 2005 through 2020.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

Fine concentration, with spice and orange nuances playing off a lively structure and juicy texture. Tails off a little on the finish. Drink now through 2006. 100 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add