Light in body, but possessing a powerful core of acidity and fruit, this kabinett offers up whiffs of clover honey and lees, followed by flavors of white peach and lime. For a Loosen wine, it’s on the austere side, but for everyone who calls it lean and ungenerous will be another taster applauding its restraint and elegance.——J.C.(6/1/2008)—— 88