Unwinding in the glass with aromas of peach, lemon oil, freshly baked bread, oyster shell and struck match, Fèvre's 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a racy, electric profile and a searingly saline, intensely penetrating finish of striking persistence. This is a terrific Valmur that will merit at least a decade's patience to reveal all its considerable potential.

A highlight this year is the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, a full-bodied, deep and layered wine evocative of citrus oil, clear honey, blanched almonds, beeswax and iodine. Satiny-textured and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, electric finish, it's another immensely promising wine from Fèvre that should be forgotten in the cellar.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is one of the most powerful, muscular wines in the range, delivering notes of pear, citrus oil, oyster shells, beeswax and white flowers. Full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack, racy acids and a long, mineral finish, it should prove one of the most long-lived wines in Fèvre's portfolio this year.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare this year, but it remains quite classic in profile, unfurling in the glass with notes of green orchard fruit, lemon oil and anise, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's full-bodied, glossy and concentrated, with bright acids, a tight-knit core and a long, mineral finish. It's a promising Valmur.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was more closed than the Vaudésir on the nose and perhaps at this nascent stage does not exude the same charm. The palate is balanced and quite concentrated thanks to the yield at just 13 to 14 hectoliters per hectare. It improves toward the second half with an attractive fresh pear and white pepper-tinged finish, although it feels a little gruff and broody at the moment.