Domaine William Fevre Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, France

威廉·費爾酒莊克洛斯（夏布利特級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：11551

The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre's immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It's the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien.

The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has turned out brilliantly, mingling aromas of orange oil, confit citrus and crisp green apple with notes of warm bread, white flowers, oyster shell and anise in an incipiently complex bouquet. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with broad shoulders and huge depth at the core, concluding with a long, electric finish. It was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another obvious success, mingling aromas of citrus and citrus confit with hints of beeswax, peach and pear in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, muscular and layered, it's textural and fleshy, with a deep and tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is a fine effort that will improve with bottle age, but it is a bit more front-loaded out of the gates than the very fine 2017 rendition.

Revisiting Fèvre's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos six months later, as I was completing this report, I was also inclined to upgrade my score, as the wine is bouncing back from its recent bottling with a vengeance. Its pure and charming bouquet of ripe citrus fruits, crisp yellow apples, beeswax and spring flowers is now complemented by classy nuances of oyster shell and warm bread; and on the palate, the wine remains full-bodied, ample and satiny-textured, with an enveloping core of fruit, ripe but succulent acids and a long, precise and delicately chalky finish, but its impressive structuring extract and depth of concentration are even more apparent. In short, don't miss this superb effort.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos, cropped at around 17 hectoliters per hectare, was blended the day previous to my visit and is due to be bottled in December 2017 or perhaps the following month. As such, the aromatics are too leesy to assess. The palate is balanced with a saline, sour lemon-tinged entry, perhaps lighter than the Bougros C?te Bouguerots and with a prickle of spice toward the finish. It should gain complexity and harmony throughout its élevage and will be one to watch.