Mineral and spice-scented, the light to medium-bodied 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes (white) has excellent focus, grip, and length yet does not fully blossom on the palate. Its appealing floral, mineral flavors are wound tightly, giving the impression they are being restrained from completely expressing themselves. Drink this wine between 2006 (in hopes that a year in the bottle will expand its character) and 2010.

Loads of pears, apples, and spices can be found in the rich nose of the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes. Medium-bodied, broad, and suave, this creamy, plush, tangy wine coats the palate with vanilla, spices, poached pears, and hints of new oak. Drink this outstanding Chassagne over the next 6-8 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

The 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes has toasted apple aromas and a precise, satin-textured character. It is medium-bodied, focused, and displays pit fruit and apple flavors in its expressive, forward character. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.