The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessus is brilliant, unfurling in the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with racy acids and a layered, textural mid-palate, it concludes with a saline finish.

The brilliant 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessus offers up aromas of pear, pastry cream, lemon pith, vanilla pod and toasted almonds, followed by a medium to full-bodied, strikingly deep and concentrated palate. Satiny and enveloping, its ample core of fruit conceals prodigious reserves of structuring extract.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessus has turned out brilliantly, offering up aromas of citrus pith, confit lemon, vanilla pod and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with impressive concentration in this vintage, it's satiny but incisive, with tangy acids and a long, saline finish.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessus was showing even better in bottle, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, citrus zest, wheat toast, nutmeg and anise. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and textural, there's more substance and structure here than I perceived, with plenty of racy acidity too. Long and saline, this is a serious Charmes. Germain told me that 80% of this cuvée is produced from the domaine's holdings, with the balance coming from a parcel they farm and harvest.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes du Dessus from Vincent Girardin has a rather feisty nose with hints of peppermint and orange sorbet that unfolds gradually in the glass. The palate does not quite deliver the finesse of the nose and feels just a little attenuated at the moment. Perhaps it will gain more presence with time, but at the moment, this is a Meursault Charmes that is not quite firing on all cylinders.