Notes of citrus oil, fresh bread, white flowers, wet stones and nutmeg introduce Dancer's 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and satiny wine that's concentrated and tightly wound, with racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. This is a prodigious wine from one of this vineyard's finest exponents.

Revisited from bottle, Dancer's 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, citrus oil, wheat toast, mandarin, dried white flowers and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, textural and incisive, this is a concentrated, muscular Chevalier that's long and powerful, concluding with a chalky finish.

From vines planted in 1962, Vincent Dancer's 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is a powerful, expressive wine, wafting from the glass with notes of citrus zest, yellow stone fruit crisp, cut flowers and wet limestone. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, texturally lavish but vertical and controlled despite its size, with excellent cut and concentration and a long, stony finish. It's hard to choose between this and Dancer's Meursault Perrières.

The 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a 0.096-hectare parcel of vines planted in 1952 in four rows adjacent to “La Cabotte” (see Bouchard Pere & Fils). It yields just a single barrel per annum. Leaving my glass aside for five minutes, it reveals an entrancing bouquet with hints of blackberry leaf, citrus peel, flint and Alpine streams. The palate is very taut on the entry with a fine line of acidity, superb mineralite and tangible weight and presence toward the finish commensurate with a grand cru. This is a great Chevalier-Montrachet from Vincent Dancer. Vincent Dancer took over his father’s domaine in 1996. Up until then the holdings at been en fermage, though it was not until 2003 that Vincent was able to bottle his debut vintage. This was my first visit to the domaine, which has a strong following in the UK and Europe. Unfortunately there is no distributor in the United States at the moment, though hopefully that will change in the future, so long as there are more generous growing seasons than 2012 and 2013. Vincent is thoughtful young winemaker who practices a very straightforward, rudimentary winemaking. “Compared to 2011 we were 50% down,” he informed me as we descended into his cellars, his faithful hound keeping guard outside. “We lost 30% during the flowering season and there are just 35 barrels for the 2012 vintage. We started the harvest September 15. For the whites, I do a normal pressing in a pneumatic press and an old Vaslin press. I don’t add any sulfur and then after the pressing, I transfer the juice into barrel for a minimum of 12 months, though the last three vintages were in barrel for 16 to 17 months, the final five or six months in tank before bottling. There was a tiny bit more new oak in 2012 due to the small quantities, but usually it is around 25% for the premier crus. The 2012 is the first vintage that will bear ‘organic’ on the label.” The samples were taken from tank off the lees and they will have a little sulfur before bottling. The reds had just been dosed up with sulfur so I did not taste them, although the focus here is definitely upon the whites. These are well worth looking out for. Dancer’s wines demonstrated good weight in the mouth, often a little creamier in texture than its peers, but with requisite acidity to maintain tautness and linearity. Importer: there is presently no US importer but available through AB Vintners in the UK.