The 2004 Pouilly-Fuisse Tradition reveals a nose of chamomile and linden teas. Medium-bodied and satin-textured, this intense wine explodes with flavors reminiscent of an Asian spice market awash in herbal teas. Projected maturity: 2008-2015. Visiting the Valette family, whose home/estate is perched on Chaintre’s hillside affording views of the Saone valley (all the way to the Alps), is always a fascinating adventure. Ever since the family patriarch, Gerard Valette, left the local coop, he and his family have been fiercely independent, bucking both viticultural and winemaking traditions. For example, when all their neighbors had finished harvesting the 2003s, the Valettes were waiting for the fruit to be ripe, and when all their neighbors had bottled and shipped their 2004s, the Valettes’ were still undergoing elevage. Sadly, this outstanding, iconoclastic estate, whose offerings grace the finest restaurant wine lists in France, is no longer imported into the United States.No American importer.

Bottled in October, 2005, the 2002 Pouilly-Fuisse Tradition displays a gorgeous nose of spiced minerals and flowers. Its powerful core is intense, concentrated, and creamy-textured. Syrupy minerals, pastry cream, anise, nutmeg, white pepper, and notes of cinnamon are found in its complex character. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Visiting the Valette family, whose home/estate is perched on Chaintre’s hillside affording views of the Saone valley (all the way to the Alps), is always a fascinating adventure. Ever since the family patriarch, Gerard Valette, left the local coop, he and his family have been fiercely independent, bucking both viticultural and winemaking traditions. For example, when all their neighbors had finished harvesting the 2003s, the Valettes were waiting for the fruit to be ripe, and when all their neighbors had bottled and shipped their 2004s, the Valettes’ were still undergoing elevage. Sadly, this outstanding, iconoclastic estate, whose offerings grace the finest restaurant wine lists in France, is no longer imported into the United States.No American importer.

The Valettes are planning to bottle the 2000 Pouilly-Fuisse Tradition at approximately the same time this issue will be released. Its earth, mineral and gravel-scented nose leads to a pure, light to medium-bodied personality. Armed with excellent depth of fruit (pears and apples), it is silky-textured, well-focused and pure. It should be drunk over the next 5 years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228