The 2005 SAINT GEORGE GRANDE CUVEE, only 12.5% alcohol, has a beautiful mouthfeel, opening with a lush first attack that engages the palate and makes it feel full bodied and flavorful, laced with cherry nuances. Ok, all you low alcohol evangelists. Put your money where your mouth is, as this is a pretty good pick in a low alcohol wine. It spent 12 months in new French oak, which is prominent at the moment, but should recede with time. After the first rush of lush fruitiness, it became more like the 2004, as the wine is a bit light in the mid-palate. Then, it closed up a bit. A year or so of cellaring should help this come together. Drink now-2014. George Skouras is one of Greece’s stalwarts, having studied oenology in Burgundy, founded his winery in 1986 and released his well known “Megas Oenos” brand in 1988, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (usually around 20%) and one of Greece’s most successful indigenous reds, Agiorgitiko (usually around 80%, from old vines dating back to the 1930s and 1940s, says Skouras). Note that Skouras translates Agiorgitiko into “Saint George” on his labels. All of the Megas Oenos wines are unfiltered. Skouras may use some Cabernet Sauvignon, but his elegant wines remind me more of Burgundy. Some library wines are included in these reviews to demonstrate the evolution of the Megas Oenos brand, going from a light, very low alcohol wine to a riper, more modern wine with better balance and depth. The early examples are fun and often very well crafted, but the current bottlings, still quite elegant, seem more likely to excel.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211

The 2004 SAINT GEORGE GRANDE CUVEE is from a high altitude vineyard area (around 3,300 feet). It opens a bit closed and tight, but expands respectably. It is always on the lighter side, elegant mid-palates being a given with this producer. With air, the oak integrates well as the fruit develops, tossing off tasty cherry notes. There is grip on the finish, too. It is a generally attractive presentation, if a little compact. Drink now-2013. George Skouras is one of Greece’s stalwarts, having studied oenology in Burgundy, founded his winery in 1986 and released his well known “Megas Oenos” brand in 1988, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (usually around 20%) and one of Greece’s most successful indigenous reds, Agiorgitiko (usually around 80%, from old vines dating back to the 1930s and 1940s, says Skouras). Note that Skouras translates Agiorgitiko into “Saint George” on his labels. All of the Megas Oenos wines are unfiltered. Skouras may use some Cabernet Sauvignon, but his elegant wines remind me more of Burgundy. Some library wines are included in these reviews to demonstrate the evolution of the Megas Oenos brand, going from a light, very low alcohol wine to a riper, more modern wine with better balance and depth. The early examples are fun and often very well crafted, but the current bottlings, still quite elegant, seem more likely to excel.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211