Pierre-Yves Colin Saint Aubin en Remilly

點擊次數(shù)：1867

2010 年份的這款 St. Aubin En Remilly酒香精妙，果香濃郁而又富有層次。該酒一直是 Burgundy 產(chǎn)區(qū)最精致的葡萄酒之一，產(chǎn)量極少?，F(xiàn)在這款酒在慢慢的蛻變，又將是一款佳釀。預(yù)期成熟時間：2014年或之后。

Far richer and more prominently fruity than his other Saint-Aubins of the vintage, Colin’s 2007 Saint-Aubin En Remilly – two-thirds of which comes from 50 year-old vines – leads with peach, quince, toasted nuts and brown spices; takes on a honeyed cast as it caresses the palate; and finishes long on sappy fruit concentrate, smoky, spicy adjuncts, and hints of peach kernel, vanilla, and wet stone. This forward wine might well continue to perform well for 4-5 years. Pierre-Yves Colin – who openly pledges allegiance to Riesling virtues – does more than just talk the talk of achieving ripe fruit at low levels of potential alcohol. Finished alcohols in his collection – after half a percent or so of chaptalization – range from a (for modern times almost astonishing) 11.75% up to 12.75%. “I really can’t say,” he confesses, “why so many growers were getting fruit of 12.5% or more potential alcohol already at the end of August,” ten days before Colin even began picking, but he can say he doubts their fruit tasted ripe then! Half of the acreage he accesses is in Saint-Aubin – naturally conducive to later ripening – and was not picked until past mid-September this year. Colin believes in minimal settling, by gravity, and retaining lots of lees, but not in actively working them; favors rapid pressing, and 350- (one-third new) over 225-liter barrels; and welcomes late and protracted malo-lactic conversions – although this vintage's malos were completed by the following June. He bottled his Saint-Aubin crus at just over a year; his other premier crus this past March; and the grands crus (of which I was unfortunately unable to taste the Chevalier-Montrachet) in May, sealing them all with wax, in the belief that this will provide extra protection against harmful oxygen ingress.For myriad further details on this relatively new estate and its rapidly-growing family of wines – nearly half of which are from contract fruit – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180, where – having up until then not seen a label – I inadvertently left-off the “-Morey” from the winery nameA Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639

The Colin 2006 Saint-Aubin En Remilly – two-thirds from 50 year-old vines – reflects its breezy, cool location high above Montrachet in a lovely alliance of creamy richness of texture with lip-smacking citricity and a tactile, vivid crushed stone and chalk character. Positively dripping with lily and honeysuckle perfume along with fresh apricot, and with both wafting floral character and piquant toasted nuttiness in its layered, long finish, this superb Saint-Aubin and outstanding value while there is no track record here gives every indication of being worth cellaring for at least 4-6 years. In 2005, Marc Colin presided over a division of his estate among his four children, and Pierre-Yves Colin – who had worked at his father’s estate since 1995 and had been making a few barrels of his own from purchased grapes since 2001 – elected to strike out on his own, bottling in his inaugural vintage of 2006 a considerable range of wines in small lots – not all of which I tasted – both from his inheritance in Saint-Aubin and Chassagne and from (presently 30%) contract fruit (largely picked by picked by his own team) in Meursault and Puligny. (He employs the same label for both groups of wines). Colin is one of Burgundy’s unabashed admirers of Riesling, and while he believes in a long elevage for his wines, he does not stir their lees (yet his wines are flatteringly creamy in texture) and professes unconcern as to whether his wines complete malolactic fermentation. (Although I taste no indication that any of these 2006s failed to complete their malo, there is no question most are noticeably bright.) Colin overwhelmingly favors 350-liter barrels over standard (228- or 225-liter) barriques for the freshness and clarity he believes they confer, and even his less prestigious appellations receive 30-50% new wood. Like many in Chassagne, he felt comfortable delaying the commencement of his 2006 harvest until September 21, yet most of the resultant wines hover on either side of 13% alcohol.A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639