This cuvée is always one of the more structured wines in the range, and the 2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains isn't an exception. Mingling aromas of raspberries and cherries with hints of fresh herbs, orange zest and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, with a broad attack but with powdery tannins that assert themselves on the somewhat austere finish. The track record at this address strongly suggests time will be kind to it, but for now, there's less flesh on its structural bones than usual.

As usual, the 2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains is one of the more structured of the Domaine's wines out of the gate, though those tannins always resolve rapidly, and this year they're unusually fine. Mingling notes of cherries, plums and cassis with hints of smoked meats and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and lively, with a long, sapid finish.

The 2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains opens in the glass with notes of ripe cherries, berries and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated with a rich chassis of tannin. Guillemot observes that it's a little chewier than usual, due to a recent racking, so I'll be revisiting it in bottle.

The 2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains is also showing well, exhibiting aromas of raspberries, currant leaf, spices and incense. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely concentrated, this lively Savigny has rounded out well with further élevage and a little time in bottle, and it surpasses the assessment I formed of its merits a year ago.