The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets wafts from the glass with aromas of peach, tangerine, white flowers, nutmeg and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's seamless and complete, with a racy spine, a taut mid-palate and a long, penetrating finish.

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets opens in the glass with aromas of nutmeg, fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit and fresh mint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a concentrated core of fruit, racy acids and chalky structuring dry extract, it marries power and tension to persuasive effect.

Tasted from bottle, the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets has fulfilled all the promise it showed last year, opening in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, citrus zest, freshly baked bread, nutmeg and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's tightly wound and precise, with real cut and back-end grip.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is one bottling that Pillot suspects will surpass his 2014 rendition, and I'm inclined to agree, though no-one would regret owning either. Offering up aromas of crushed chalk, white flowers, green apple and pear, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive, with lovely energy and cut to balance its concentration and structuring dry extract.