The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is sensational, wafting from the glass with aromas of peach and pear mingled with oatmeal, iodine, smoke and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and ample, it's a pure, seamless, racy wine that evokes the great white Burgundies of yesteryear.

The most reserved of these three bottled premiers crus is the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny wine evocative of pear, waxy citrus rind, fresh bread, pastry cream and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with lively acids and a penetrating finish, this will demand a little patience.