A terrific wine in a wash-out vintage, the 1984 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is proof of the maxim that in Burgundy, there are always surprises. Wafting from the glass with aromas of iodine, mandarin, confit lemon, smoke and peach, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and lively, with a fleshy core of fruit and chalky structuring extract. Amazingly, it's drinking better today than Pillot's 1985s.
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