Domaine Paul Blanck Mambourg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France

布蘭克曼堡特級園瓊瑤漿甜白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4297

With the same 40 grams of residual sugar as – yet, considerably less sense of sweetness than – the corresponding Furstentum, Blanck’s 2006 Gewurztraminer Mambourg is scented and flavored with a low-toned amalgam of tamarind, cocoa powder, smoky black tea, and game. To be sure, one detects peach and mirabelle here, too, but this is a wine of mysterious depth and fascinating potential, surprisingly firm and well-knit (its high extract quite possibly explaining the minimal effect of its residual sugar). I would definitely plan to revisit this with an eye to the possibility of as many as 8-10 years if intriguing evolution.Frederic and Philippe Blanck are among the wine world’s – hardly just Alsace’s or France’s – truly late-releasers, and Philippe opines that their 2007s – which he compares with the 2001s – will need especially long to show their best. That noted, I found the wines highly expressive at age one year, and the domaine did a more than credible job of 2006, too. Perhaps a bit paradoxically in light of their pleas for cellar maturation, the Blancks are moving increasingly toward the use of screwcap closure, and Philippe Blanck says that when he goes back and tastes the first wines he bottled this way – from vintages 2001 and 2002 – he is delighted with their evolution, or perhaps, in fact, their freshness and relative lack of evolution. (For an isolated comparison under cork and screwcap, see my tasting note on the Blancks’ 2006 Schlossberg Riesling.) This is one of several addresses where a tendency to revert to drier bottlings can be observed, for more about which consult my tasting notes on the Blancks’ 2007 Pinot Gris and on their 2006 and 2007 Gewurztraminer crus. Note that I was not able to taste the entire Blanck line-up from either of the vintages under consideration. In particular, there were two 2007 V.T.s I missed through an unfortunate accident in which dozens of fruit flies met their end inside the previously opened bottles before they reached me!Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and by The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029

The Blanck 2004 Gewurztraminer Mambourg smells of ripe musk melon, sweet pea, brown spices, and smoked meat. Soft in feel, low in acidity, and decidedly sweet, this nonetheless displays imposing ripeness and richness in its rather broad finish. If you are looking for the sweetness to back off while the wine is still interesting, look elsewhere.Frederic and Philippe Blanck are among the most determined late-releasers, so that even from 2004 the top wines are only now appearing in the market, and I tasted nowhere near all of this domaine’s abundant cuvees from 2005 and 2004. Frederic Blanck is eloquent in his expressions of traditionalism and viticultural idealism. I applaud the number of classically dry yet elegant and even delicate Rieslings he renders. (He says he cannot sell a truly dry-tasting Pinot Gris in France nowadays). But I must say I did not always find a vinous concentration concomitant with his idealism, particularly when it came to the numerous (and certainly ready-to-drink) 2002s that are still for sale.Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and by The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029.