The Blanck 2004 Gewurztraminer Mambourg smells of ripe musk melon, sweet pea, brown spices, and smoked meat. Soft in feel, low in acidity, and decidedly sweet, this nonetheless displays imposing ripeness and richness in its rather broad finish. If you are looking for the sweetness to back off while the wine is still interesting, look elsewhere.Frederic and Philippe Blanck are among the most determined late-releasers, so that even from 2004 the top wines are only now appearing in the market, and I tasted nowhere near all of this domaine’s abundant cuvees from 2005 and 2004. Frederic Blanck is eloquent in his expressions of traditionalism and viticultural idealism. I applaud the number of classically dry yet elegant and even delicate Rieslings he renders. (He says he cannot sell a truly dry-tasting Pinot Gris in France nowadays). But I must say I did not always find a vinous concentration concomitant with his idealism, particularly when it came to the numerous (and certainly ready-to-drink) 2002s that are still for sale.Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and by The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029.
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