The 1997 Coteaux du Layon St.-Lambert Cuvee Prestige displays candied orange aromas. It is spicy, medium-to-full-bodied, expansive, complex, and lively. Quince, apricot, cumin, and hints of cinnamon can be found in this flavorful, silky-textured offering. Its admirably long finish reveals Ogereau's deft use of new oak barrels by exhibiting traces of wood spices that add to this beauty's appeal. Drink it over the next 15 years. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 967-6948.