Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, wild berries, warm spices and licorice, the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with fine concentration, lively acids and an ample core of fruit. Concluding with elegantly chalky grip on the finish, this cuvée has always been one of the more charming and immediate wines in the cellar, but it appears to be gaining in seriousness—without loosing any of that easy appeal.

Rossignol had already bottled the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles to capture its boisterous fruit, and the wine is undeniably lovely, soaring from the glass with aromas of rose petal, plums, raspberries and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with a gourmand core of fruit, melting tannins and lovely purity. It's already hard to resist.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles contains 50% whole cluster fruit, though frankly it is difficult to tell because the fruit is so pure here—ebullient Morello cherry and crushed strawberry scents streaming from the glass. The palate is very well balanced with good density on the entry: black cherries, allspice, clove and a sprinkle of white pepper towards the finish at it fans out with confidence. It is not a sophisticated Volnay but there is a lot of guts and bravura.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles includes 50% whole cluster in order to bring energy to the wine, according to Nicolas Rossigol. It has a perfumed and floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black cherry and cassis fruit, an undertow of mineralité tucked underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. It feels quite solid, almost opaque towards the saturnine finish, albeit with a pleasant chalky aftertaste. Afford this 2-3 years in bottle, so that it can reveal its secrets—presuming it has any—and if not, just drink it.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles, which includes 50% whole cluster fruit -- albeit from a different location than usual because of the hail -- has a backward, introspective nose at first, though there is fine mineralité here just below the surface. The palate is very well balanced with succulent ripe tannin, very good tension and harmony, quite powerful and yet so elegant towards the finish. This will probably be bottled at the end of the year to keep the freshness and comes recommended.