The beautiful 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins unfurls in the glass with a lovely bouquet of raspberries, wild berries, orange rind and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chalky and tensile, with a layered mid-palate laden with old-vine concentration, a bright line of animating acidity, and a pure, stony finish. This will be well worth seeking out.

There is all of one barrel of the 2009 Pommard Chanlins. It is a dark, inviting wine layered with black cherries, freshly cut flowers and minerals. A persistent vein of minerality and elegant tannins frame the vibrant finish. The soils in this parcel high up on the slope are white and poor, and the vines are more than 80 years old. The Chanlins was made from 100% destemmed fruit. Tasted from barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Nicolas Rossignol began picking on September 10th and brought in very ripe fruit, with natural alcohols in the 13.5% range. Rossignol used a higher percentage of stems than normal to give the wines a measure of freshness. The wines saw 20-24 days of cuvaison (with no cold soak) with one punchdown per day. New oak ranged from 15% for the villages to 33-50% for the 1ers. The wines were not racked during their time in barrel. Rossignol has an energy and passion that will take him far. His 2009s are a bit all over the place stylistically, though, and it appears that a distinct house style has yet to emerge. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640; Pas Mal Portfolio, NY; tel. (201) 569-4132

From some of his oldest (80+ year) vines, Rossignol’s 2008 Pommard Chanlins (tasted from tank) displays a concentration of pure, amazingly sweet black fruits almost magically transparent to peat, cocoa powder, and shimmering, crystalline mineral salts. The finish here has me salivating uncontrollably yet unable to wipe the salt or the grin from my lips. One of those stealth “black Riesling” Pinots – and singular in my experience of Pommard – this should be worth following for two decades. Having convinced Nicolas Rossignol to let me taste in the 2008 vintage the entirety of his collection – expanded by the “re-union” of various family members’ parcels large and small to encompass, from 2009, 32 appellations! – I ran into a snag. In his frigid cellar – so cold yet in March that we met to taste at his house in Beaune – many wines (two Pernands; three lots of Pommard; Volnay Fremiets ?) were still stuck undergoing (some barely beginning) malo-lactic conversion! Some growers would opine that outstanding results cannot possibly issue from such freakishly retarded young wines, but my experience with what is clearly the most exciting collection I have yet experienced from this young vigneron suggests otherwise. There was a continuum on display among the wines I tasted, from ones that had only just finished malo and were still loaded with CO2, to more finished wines, and they were virtually all excellent. Rossignol sees aspects of each of the three vintages that preceded it in 2008, as well as what he calls “the finesse of 2002.” Potential alcohols were in the 12.5 to low 13s and a significant share of the wines was lightly chaptalized, though not for the sake of alcoholic body per se. For all of the hail in his general sector this July, only Rossignol’s Santenay “and a touch of the Caillerets” were hit. He claims that in 2008 he did not have to exercise rigorous sorting in the cellar but only on the vines, and he persisted in the inclusion of stems and whole clusters (“vendange entier”) in certain cuvees, an inclusion I have tried to mentioned where applicable in my tasting notes. By contrast, his 2007s – which he calls “wines for drinking, not tasting” – were all de-stemmed. (For further details on Rossignol and his approach to Pinot, see my reports in issues 171 and 176.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70