Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune les Aigrots

點擊次數(shù)：4060

2010 年份的 Beaune Les Aigrots 起初十分微妙和內(nèi)斂，隨后中段口感和余味都很濃郁。此酒散發(fā)著迷人的芳香，倒入杯子后，風(fēng)味非常充實。這是一款產(chǎn)自 Lafarge 的佳釀。預(yù)期成熟時間：2014 至 2024 年。產(chǎn)量很低，Lafarge 地區(qū)2010 年的產(chǎn)量下降 40%。

The 2008 Beaune Les Aigrots is another beautifully complete, harmonious wine. This deceptively mid-weight Beaune blossoms on the palate with a textured personality and tons of class. The gorgeous inner perfume flows through nicely to the intense, complex finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Cassis and dark cherry in the nose of the Lafarge 2007 Beaune Les Aigrots adumbrate juicy, forward fruit on the palate that contrasts in its sweetness to the tart impression of the also excellent 2008. But then, 2007 is a vintage in which a high-elevation site like Aigrots could benefit, and in which tartness of fruit is relatively rare. This suggests creaminess of texture, which further underscores the contrast and counterpoint with chalky, saline mineral and cyanic cherry pit finishing notes. Follow it for 7-9 years, and let it sit out the next 3-4. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are understandably enthusiastic about their admittedly millerandage-, hail-, and triage-reduced 2008 crop, but insisted that rot was not a significant problem. And even the hail, they report, was minimal in their portions of Clos des Chenes and Caillerets, being largely confined to certain village and generic sectors. All of the 2008s here (even of minor appellation) were still in barrel when I tasted them in March, and would, as usual at this address, be assembled only immediately before bottling. Malos were late here by the estate’s normal standards, but still largely finished by August, and the Lafarges insist that they did not have musts with unusually high levels of malic acidity, in regard to which Frederic observes that a matter of just a few days in picking date in 2008 could make a big chemical difference. Michel Lafarge opines that one needs several months after malo to let a young red Burgundy collect and express itself before one ought even to contemplate bottling, in light of which he cannot comprehend – much less agree with – the many growers who bottled 2008s during the winter. He also emphatically resists the suggestion that 2008 is, in any sense, a throwback to the old normalcy – a subject on which Michel Lafarge has to be one of Burgundy’s most seasoned experts – pointing out that there wasn’t really any need to chaptalize the 2008s, which came in largely in the upper 12s. (Alcohol levels were slightly higher in the impressive 2007s, nearly all of which were picked the first week in September.)A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

The Lafarge 2006 Beaune Les Aigrots displays both prominent fruit pit and chalk as well as mysteriously ore-like mineral characteristics that – when allied with tartness of sour cherry and blackberry fruit – make for a bracing but rather austere performance. This is firm and bright – almost implosively concentrated – with a finish that leaves you invigorated but almost stunned by the wine's sense of scouring power. "There wasn't one rotten berry here," insists Michel Lafarge, "the fruit was magnificent." What lifts this above the level of the also austere 2005 is its refinement of tannin. It is the sort of wine that a couple of my Alsace vigneron friends would call "Protestant," and should be fascinating to follow for at least the next 6-8 years – provided, of course, that its linear, severe style is appealing to you. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70