The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Créots reveals aromas of lemon oil, warm bread and fresh herbs, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny palate that's intensely chalky and mineral. It derives from a cool, rocky site, and that shows.

Aromas of pear, citrus oil, green apple and fresh mint preface the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Créots, a medium-bodied, chiseled and mineral wine that derives from a cool, late-ripening site. Spared by the frosts that impacted much of Saint-Aubin this year, it's the result of more normal yields.

After the sunny, open Castets from a south-facing site, Colin's 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Créots is a more tensile, chiseled wine from a west-facing climat. Revealing notes of citrus zest, green apple and crushed chalk, it's medium-bodied, racy and mouthwatering, concluding with a chalky finish.

Notes of pastry cream, fresh pear, white flowers and sourdough preface the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Créots, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural wine that's fine-boned and incisive, concluding with a chalky finish. It's hard to choose between the racier Créots or the somewhat more sun-kissed Castets this year.

The 2015 Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Creots has one feisty bouquet, energetic and perhaps conveying the warmth of the growing season more than the other Saint Aubin premier crus from the domaine, hints of tropical fruit underneath the citrus veneer. The palate is rounded and generous on the entry, quite honeyed and spicy, veins of stem ginger and white pepper towards the finish that lingers long in the mouth. Fine, but not my favorite this year.