L'Oustal Blanc Minervois la Liviniere Maestoso

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1864

L’Oustal’s 2007 Minervois Maestoso represents a third each of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah sourced from both chalky and schistic parcels and vinified in new wood (the Grenache in demi-muids; the rest in barriques). After being assembled, the various lots spend six months in tank, from which I tasted the wine. Claude Fonquerle took the key word for this wine out of my mouth when he pronounced “patisserie.” This tastes as though there were a deep reservoir of pure, seamless, liqueur-like black fruits and marzipan, in which had been macerated black peppercorns, cinnamon, licorice, vanilla bean, and – dare I put it this way? – chips of very expensive oak. Of course, I don’t write that as a reflection on Fonquerle’s methods, but only to point out that with this cuvee, new wood is determined to play a distinct role. “There’s no way I would risk using older barrels for this material,” he says by way of justification. The polished tannins and creaminess of texture that rendered other 2007s and 2006s here so remarkable has been achieved with this wine, too. Sweet, slightly resinous, and faintly warm, the finish here is remarkably intense and long. Time alone can tell how this cuvee evolves, or whether it will be worth holding for longer than its siblings. “The 2007s and 2005s are real wines of the South,” remarks Fonquerle, “whereas 2006 is more Burgundian.” Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Certainly the 2006 Minervois Maestoso is a more open, elegant, and refreshing wine than its 2007 counterpart, and one with more obvious herbal (sage, thyme, and licorice) as well as stony, mineral notes. Bitter-edged black fruits with a hint of dark chocolate complement the subtle toastiness of oak on a palate that is strikingly plush, leading to an imposingly long finish in which fruit, herbs, and stone call and respond to one another. This should be fascinating to follow for at least 4-6 years. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The l’Oustal 2005 Minervois Maestoso is the animal of the Maestosos in more ways than one. There is a genuinely carnal element to the flavors – like spit-roasted meat over rosemary and (oh dear ...!) oak chips. There is also a palpable density and chew to the texture, which no doubt reflect both vintage character and as yet evolving methods of fermentative extraction. Bitter-edged black fruits are rather subdued, and subsumed in the finish under the meat, herbs, chocolate, and toasty oak. I suspect this will be best drunk over the next 2-3 years, although the wine might well (and Fonquerle would like to) prove me wrong. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800