L'Oustal Blanc Minervois la Liviniere Maestoso

點擊次數(shù)：1867

The l’Oustal 2005 Minervois Maestoso is the animal of the Maestosos in more ways than one. There is a genuinely carnal element to the flavors – like spit-roasted meat over rosemary and (oh dear ...!) oak chips. There is also a palpable density and chew to the texture, which no doubt reflect both vintage character and as yet evolving methods of fermentative extraction. Bitter-edged black fruits are rather subdued, and subsumed in the finish under the meat, herbs, chocolate, and toasty oak. I suspect this will be best drunk over the next 2-3 years, although the wine might well (and Fonquerle would like to) prove me wrong. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800