Aromas of blueberries, baked plums, sweet soil tones and vine smoke introduce the 2020 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered wine that's unusually seamless and elegant, with vibrant acids and sweet, powdery tannins that mark it out as a high point of the range.

Another cuvée produced from very old vines is the 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers, a striking wine that exhibits notes of red berries, plums, cassis, peonies and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, deep and velvety, it's layered and elegant, with terrific concentration and lively acids. This has fully realized all the potential it showed in barrel.

The 2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers is a large-scaled, muscular wine, which Boillot says was impacted by hail this year. Exhibiting notes of cassis, red cherries, raw cocoa and pungent soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and chewy, with lively acids and ample reserves of tannin, which make it somewhat of a stylistic outlier this year.

The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers displays notes of cassis, wild plums, raspberries and grilled meats, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy wine that's richly layered and nicely concentrated, with juicy balancing acids. It was the least advanced wine in the cellar when I tasted it and will demand some patience.

The 2016 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers was damaged 70% by frost. Yet it manages to foment a concentrated, very well-defined bouquet with blackberry and blueberry fruit, wonderfully defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very dense and focused with a gorgeous oyster shell tincture toward the long finish. This is the finest 2016 from Louis Boillot this year—superb.