Boillot's 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers was still in barrel when I last tasted it, but, there being only four, I was able to sample a precise assemblage. Ripe purple plum and dark cherry; soy; musky, sweet floral perfume; and cocoa powder make for a grand show aromatically as well as on a richly-textured palate. There is a vintage-typical sense of lift and elegance here for all of the lushness of texture and ripeness of flavor, with savory, floral, and subtly bitter notes maintaining a lovely counterpoint with the dark fruit and cocoa in the finish. This should be a treat to follow over the next decade, but like so many of the best wines of its vintage, I can't see any reason to keep from savoring some of it early on.
Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.)
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990