Domaine Louis Boillot Les Epenottes, Beaune Premier Cru, France

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The 2009 Beaune Les Epenots is a dark, inward wine loaded with dark fruit, asphalt and licorice. It possesses notable density that builds towards the powerful finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2024. Louis Boillot remarked that he and his wife Ghislaine Barthod were the first to harvest in 2009, but the last in 2008. In 2009 Boillot was concerned with losing the singular expression of site, hence his decision to pick on the early side. The 2009s were made from 100% destemmed fruit, as is the custom here. New oak reached a maximum of 25-30%. Boillot is among the growers who prefers the 2008s to the 2009s, which he describes as more faithful and transparent to site.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Boillot’s old vines 2008 Beaune Epenotes displays bitter- and tart-edged black fruits mingled with hints of meat stock, chalk, cherry pit, and toasted praline. Clean, cool, and lean, it finishes with formidable persistence and mouth-watering sheer refreshment. I expect it may display more definition after bottling; will respond well to a few years in bottle; and should be worth following for at least 4-5. Louis Boillot’s 2008s – all but three recently racked to tank when I tasted them in February, and due to have been bottled between April and June depending in part on the sensory evolution of their prominent acidity – represent one of those vintage collections that reminds one of the virtues of typical wines from two or more decades ago: restrained, a bit youthfully tart and tight, but back by admirable extract and energy, and likely to reward cellaring for at least the better part of a decade. Having described this collection as something of a throwback, I must note that Boillot said by the time he finished picking on October 4 his remaining fruit was already at 13.5% potential alcohol – riper than in 2007 – and only a few 2008 vintage lots in his entire cellar were chaptalized. The vintage reminds him of 1996 in terms of its acidity, but of the long under-rated 1972s overall. “I bottled a lot of magnums in 2008,” Boillot says with a confident twinkle in his eye. Unfortunately, time constraints precluded by tasting the 2007s from this cellar.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

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