The 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes offers up deep fruit tones—plum, cassis—mingled with smoked meats, loamy soil and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and elegantly muscular, it's concentrated and richly structured, with lively acids and a long, penetrating finish.

The 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes has a light, innocuous bouquet with scents of strawberry jam, boysenberry and a touch of cassis that is attractive, if missing a little character. The palate is fleshy and ripe, although the presence of the wood is too conspicuous in the middle and it finishes a touch hard in the mouth. Drink 2014-2018. Domaine Lecheneaut own a scattering of parcels across the Cotes de Nuits since Fernand Lecheneaut acquired the holdings back in the 1960s. Since 1985, after their father fell ill, brothers Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut have run the winery in Nuits-St.-Georges. They farm around 10-hectares of vine, a majority Pinot Noir, including prized vines in Clos de la Roche. The tenets here are for most bunches to be stemmed, depending on the quality of fruit, and aging in Francois Freres oak (up to half new), even for the village crus. As I am accustomed to doing, I appraised the wines before researching their elevage, and time and time again I noted a propensity for the wood to dominate these wines and denude them of personality and individuality. That was frustrating because when I did encounter a cuvee where the wood was singing from the same hymn sheet as the fruit, i.e., the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, it stuck out like a sore thumb and exuded appealing fruit character, fine balance and a comparatively character-filled finish. Repeating my sentiment toward Maison Ambroise, if that new oak can be dialed down a little, then I am certain that Lecheneaut’s wines would sing more brightly. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Damodes is gorgeous. It has also absorbed all of its oak gracefully. Sumptuous layers of dark fruit flow across the palate as the wine shows off its depth. I especially like the sheer energy and drive of the finish. This is a strikingly beautiful wine from Lecheneaut. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. This is a beautiful set of wines from Lecheneaut. The wines show marvelous detail and nuance in a highly attractive style that captures the best the vintage had to give. Unfortunately the 2010 Clos de la Roche was too reduced to evaluate. Vincent Lecheneaut began picking on September 24. The wines saw 5-6 days of old oak, followed by a cuvaison of 15-21 days. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York City; tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Damodes is gorgeous. It has also absorbed all of its oak gracefully. Sumptuous layers of dark fruit flow across the palate as the wine shows off its depth. I especially like the sheer energy and drive of the finish. This is a strikingly beautiful wine from Lecheneaut. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. This is a beautiful set of wines from Lecheneaut. The wines show marvelous detail and nuance in a highly attractive style that captures the best the vintage had to give. Unfortunately the 2010 Clos de la Roche was too reduced to evaluate. Vincent Lecheneaut began picking on September 24. The wines saw 5-6 days of old oak, followed by a cuvaison of 15-21 days.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083