The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges unwinds in the glass with notes of sweet red berries, spices and orange rind. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, tensile and incisive, with tangy acids, a vibrant core of fruit and a mineral finish. As usual, it's the raciest premier cru in the Grivot cellar.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges has a more masculine, perhaps more bucolic bouquet compared to Les Chaumes at present: dusky black fruit, autumn leaves, white flowers and just a light pinch of brown spice. The palate is very focused with plenty of energy, certainly leaning toward tart red fruit with fine mineralité and salinité toward the penetrating finish. This is all about the precision rather than power. Bon vin!

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges had a heavy reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, perhaps a little broad-shouldered and rustic compared to some of Etienne Grivot's other 2015s, though there is fine tension and grip on the finish. A bit curmudgeonly at the moment, I am sure it will age with style.

The 2014 Vosne\Romanée 1er Cru les Rouges was showing just a touch of reduction on the nose. The palate is firm and structured on the entry, a slightly more masculine and serious les Rouges this year. The acidity is nicely judged; it is precise but like the les Chaumées, it is very linear and strict on the finish, refusing to fan out like a more benevolent vintage. Give it 3-4 years in bottle.

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Rouges, my sample having a little more new wood than the final blend, had a slight reduction on the nose so I will not dwell on that. The palate is medium-bodied and more plump than the Chaumées, more sensual perhaps with a lush red cherry and strawberry finish that linger in the mouth. More approachable than the Chaumees, this might be deceptively long lived. One of Etienne's less-known vineyards, this put in a strong and commendable showing.