There are only five barrels of the 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, but the wine has turned out very well. Wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, vine smoke, rose petals and raw cocoa, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and tightly wound, with good concentration, bright acids and a long, mineral finish.

Revisited in bottle, Lignier's 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru lives up to its fine performance in barrel, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and orange rind mingled with truffle, espresso roast, loamy soil and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, concentrated and seamless, it's layered and vibrant, with a deep core of pure fruit that largely conceals impressive reserves of fine, powdery tannins. Concluding with a long and saline finish, it will merit and reward at least a dozen years' patience, likely hitting its stride around age 20.