The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from an exchange of grapes with another grower and is sourced from two parcels. It offers plush red cherry, redcurrant and boysenberry jam scents on the nose that I feel could benefit from a little more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, quite fine tannin and a brisk line of acidity. This feels linear in the mouth, quite strict for a 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin, although it will flesh out by the time this is in bottle.

The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin Village, which sees 25% new oak, and includes the fruit from Les Seuvrées this year, has an outgoing bouquet with small dark cherries and touches of blueberry developing. The palate is medium-bodied with some of the oak to be fully subsumed, but there is a roundness and a velvety texture that should please the punter.

The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin, which unlike the 2013 does not includes the Les Seuvrées, has a very focused, straitlaced bouquet with Morello cherry and cranberry scents, a touch of sous-bois in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, bright red fruits and impressive precision on the finish. This is a top notch village cru.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from two parcels. The bouquet has a little more vivacity and sensuality than the Chambolle Village. The palate is sweet and rounded on the entry with bright red berries and fine minerality. There is nothing here except a very well-crafted Village Cru for the vintage. Drink now-2016. Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin shows a little more depth and mid-palate pliancy than the Justice, most likely because of the older vines and deeper soils in these parcels. This is a gorgeous, refined Gevrey full of character and personality. In 2010 the Gevrey is mostly fruit from Les Seuvrees. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Laurent Lignier began harvesting on September 30 and finished on October 5. Yields were down approximately 30-35% across the board because of the cold summer. Lignier reported that the fruit required minimal sorting but the bunches were very small. The 2010s had not been racked at the time of my tastings. Lignier planned to bottle in the spring of 2012 with no fining or filtration. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990