The Hubert Lignier 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin offers a big bowl of fresh, ripe-yet-tart cherries to the nose and palate. Simple but juicy and persistent, I would elect to enjoy this in the near term despite its slight roughness of tannin. There is a distressing cloud hanging over this venerable estate because Hubert Lignier and the American widow of his son, Romain, have been unable to agree on pooling their resources, with the result that two sets of 2006s were vinified (and the 2005s may end up being sold under two different labels). The 2005s I tasted had been drawn earlier in the day as approximations to the final blends. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.