The 2020 Santenay Clos des Hates is firmer and more structured than the Chassagne, exhibiting aromas of plums, wild berries, sweet spices, peonies and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, taut and concentrated, it will require some patience.

Aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet soil tones and orange rind preface Lamy's 2019 Santenay Clos des Hates, a medium to full-bodied, lively wine with a pretty core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, spicy finish. A touch more reserved out of the gates than its Chassagne-Montrachet counterpart in red, it will merit at least a few years' patience.

The 2018 Santenay Clos des Hates soars from the glass with scents of ripe berry fruit, spices, dark chocolate and potpourri. Medium to full-bodied, perfumed and textural, this is a deep, rich Santenay that's muscular but elegant, confirming Lamy's prowess with Pinot Noir.