Aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet soil tones and orange rind preface Lamy's 2019 Santenay Clos des Hates, a medium to full-bodied, lively wine with a pretty core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, spicy finish. A touch more reserved out of the gates than its Chassagne-Montrachet counterpart in red, it will merit at least a few years' patience.