The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape l'Eperdu is pure Grenache, aged in 400-liter barrels. It's plummy and earthy, layered with baking spices and even a slightly resinous oaky character. Full-bodied and warm, it finishes silky and suave, but I would opt for drinking this in its first decade.

The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape l'Eperdu is 100% old-vine Grenache aged in 400-liter oak casks. A full-bodied, plush, warm wine that's loaded up with lumber, it offers scents of vanilla and cedar, while baking spices mark the smooth, supple finish. Unless you love new oak, give it a couple of years to see if the wood better integrates with what is undoubtedly some fine underlying fruit.

Traditionalists will undoubtedly roll their eyes at the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape l'Eperdu, which is 100% Grenache aged in 400-liter oak casks, but there is no denying the sex appeal of its cedar and Christmas-spice aromas or its voluptuous texture. Black cherry fruit picks up hints of licorice and cocoa on the slightly warm finish.

One of two special cuvees from this estate, both of which showed much better from bottle than barrel, I loved the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape l’Eperdu. Made from 100% Grenache (which is rare in this vintage) that spent 12 months in 400-liter barrels, it’s loaded with notions of mulled spices, white pepper, wild strawberry, blackberry and hints of vanilla bean, which is the only indication that it spent time in oak. Medium-bodied, elegant, yet nicely concentrated on the palate, it has lots of fine tannin, beautiful purity of fruit and tons of Grenache character. I don’t think it will make old bones, but it should impress for at least a decade.

The most voluptuous of the lineup, with a slightly modern style, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape L’Eperdu is 100% Grenache that was aged all in 400-liter oak barrels. Exhibiting plenty of kirsch, dried licorice, mulled spices and dusty soil notes, this medium to full-bodied effort stays lively and fresh on the palate, with beautiful focus and purity. It should be approachable on release and dish out plenty of pleasure over the coming decade. Drink 2014-2024. An estate that continues to produce a bevy of outstanding wines, Domaine Durieu is now managed and run by the young Vincent Durieu. Vincent produced some spectacular 2010s, and the 2011s and 2012s aren’t far behind. In addition, these remain reasonably priced in the marketplace. While their L’Eperdu cuvee shows a slight modern character, both the traditional cuvee and the old vine Lucile Avrile, which are aged mostly in concrete, stay distinctly traditional in style. A Jack Siler Selection, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 644-5210; various American importers, including Route des Vins Imports, LLC, Charleston, SC; tel. (843) 737-0301