The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes has turned out especially well, to the extent that it's the best rendition of this cuvée that I can remember tasting chez Dugat-Py. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, dark berries, rose petals, incense and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, supple tannins and lively acids.

There are four barrels of the 2019 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes, derived as usual from holdings in Les Quartiers de Nuits—from the part of the lieu-dit that is not included within the boundaries of the Echézeaux Grand Cru—and contiguous Les Violettes. Mingling notes of wild berries and raspberries with exotic top notes of mandarin rind, Asian spices and peonies, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit complemented by complexifying carnal nuances.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes offers up a lovely bouquet of wild berry fruit, woodsmoke, spices and orange rind, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated but fine-boned palate, built around succulent acids and powdery tannins. This cuvée derives from holdings in Les Quartiers de Nuits—from the part of the lieu-dit that is not included within the boundaries of the Echézeaux Grand Cru—and contiguous Les Violettes. It was vinified with 60% whole cluster and matured in 50% new oak barrels.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is performing very well from bottle, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berry fruit, plums, smoked meats, dark chocolate and orange rind that becomes deeper-pitched and more brooding with time in the glass. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with powdery structuring tannins, succulent acids and a long and perfumed finish. This has gained additional depth and dimension in the last year.

Touched severely by the frost, there is just one new barrel of the 2016 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes, which includes two-thirds whole cluster. It has a lovely floral bouquet with touches of violet infusing the blackberry and raspberry fruit, almost pastille-like in purity. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite solid and stocky, some wood tannin toward the finish that will need to be absorbed with time. Fine.