Full-bodied, rich and highly textural, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme is atypically concentrated and dense, reflecting the addition of more old-vine Grenache to the cuvée. Black cherries, salted licorice and dark chocolate all make appearances, and the wine finishes long and velvety.

The final blend from tank of the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme boasts delicate, floral aromas and hints of strawberries and raspberries. It's full-bodied but silky and tender, very charming, with decent length. I haven't been a huge fan of this cuvée in the past, but this is pretty darn good.

Because of coulure in the Grenache, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme has higher-than-usual percentages of Mourvèdre and Syrah in the blend. It's darker fruited, with cola and plum notes, a rich, velvety and slightly coarse feel on the palate and decent length. It should still be consumed over the near term (6-7 years).

Boasting silky tannins, strawberry-raspberry fruit and delicate herbal shadings, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme isn't hugely rich or concentrated, but it is harmonious and graceful. Bottled in March 2018, it's immediately approachable yet capable of providing pleasure over the next 5-7 years.