I enjoyed the 1997 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Hippolyte Cuvee Speciale blanc. It is the first time they have made a white Cuvee Hippolyte (this bottling is destined to be drunk mostly with Brunier's friends). The wine will drink well for 3-4 years. 1997 was an excellent vintage for white Rhones. The wine exhibits citrusy, honeyed, rose petal-like scents, good fruit, and a medium to full-bodied personality. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Vieux-Telegraphe has produced three very good cuvees of white wine in 1996. 1996 is the debut vintage for the white Hippolyte. Seventy-five percent of this wine was barrel-fermented, and the balance is vinified in cuve. It is a layered, concentrated white Chateauneuf du Pape that is made from the same blend as the regular cuvee (40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussanne, and 15% Bourboulenc). The greater amount of barrel fermentation has given the wine a creamier texture, as well as more intensity, without any unwanted woodiness. This wine is made in extremely tiny quantities. It is a succulent, rich, and provocative white Chateauneuf du Pape. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524