The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Mourre des Perdrix (roughly 70% Grenache and 15% each Mourvèdre and Syrah) offers up garrigue-laden, lavender-scented florals, plus oodles of purple raspberries. Full-bodied and silky, it finishes long and fresh. It looks like another excellent vintage here.

Virtually the same assemblage as the traditional bottling (69% Grenache, 15% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus 1% Cinsault) but from sandier vineyard parcels, Charbonnière's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Mourre des Perdrix delivers wonderfully pure cherry fruit that's almost sweet-tasting (it's labeled 16% alcohol), but it's balanced by gentle spice and herbal nuances. It's full-bodied and supple, finishing silky and long, with just a touch of warmth.

Again, the most elegant and feminine wine of the group is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix. Notes of spring flowers intermixed with an almost raspberry and blueberry note are followed by foresty undertones. It is medium-bodied, dark ruby/purple, attractive and pure. (Not yet released)Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix, which emerges from a specific vineyard, comes across as almost Burgundian with its floral, raspberry, blueberry and sweet and sour cherry notes. This elegant, medium-bodied wine, which is generally aged in foudres and occasionally smaller oak barrels, has the most delicacy and finesse of the portfolio and should drink well for a decade. Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173