The deep ruby-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix is a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre from vines averaging 30-50 years of age. Atypically for the vintage, it requires 1-3 years of cellaring. It offers glorious notes of blackberry and new saddle leather aromas. Medium to full-bodied, impressively concentrated, and pure, with moderate tannin, this is a beautifully knit, well-balanced effort. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015. Rhone wine enthusiasts need to jump on Domaine de la Charbonniere's band wagon before the estate becomes better known. Proprietor Michel Maret is doing everything right, producing wines with individual character from low yields and bottling without filtration. It is one of the most serious Chateauneuf du Pape estates, and, fortunately, has good representation in the USA.Readers should also note that Michel Maret is fashioning competent white Chateauneuf du Papes (generally an innocuous category). He uses approximately 40% Roussanne in the blend.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524