Even with the advantage of frost protection, Moreau only achieved yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare with his 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, but it was enough to mature half of the cuvée in tank and half in barrel. The wine unwinds slowly in the glass with aromas of wheat toast, beeswax, green apple, ripe citrus fruits and almond paste, followed by a full-bodied, satiny and racy palate that's quite taut and fine-boned, with a penetrating, chalky finish.