A beautifully proportioned Marsannay with Grand Cru-type concentration and fineness of tannins. Very dark core, then a very long, polished finish.

The 2020 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is similarly superb, mingling notions of sweet berries and blood orange with scents of vine smoke and dark chocolate. Medium to full-boded, ample and fleshy, with a broad attack that segues into a suave, seamless mid-palate and a mineral finish, it will offer a broad drinking window.

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of orange rind, cherries, cassis, red plums and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and gourmand, it's fleshy and concentrated, with lovely purity of fruit and a long, mouthwatering finish.

Intense and perfumed, the 2018 Marsannay Clos de Jeu bursts with aromas of wild blueberries, blackberries, rose petals, blood orange, violets and cinnamon. Vinified with entirely whole clusters, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, sapid finish.

The 2017 Marsannay Clos de Jeu was quite introverted when I tasted it from barrel, and that's the case from bottle, too. Unwinding to reveal notes of cassis, blackberries, sweet soil tones, burning embers and warm spices, it's medium to full-bodied, with lively acids, good depth at the core and refined but youthfully firm structuring tannins.